The Walled City of Avila

Yesterday I took a 90 minute train ride to the walled city of Avila. It was bitter cold the entire day but still a great daytrip nonetheless.

Here's a bit of history on the city from my guidebook: "Avila is like a picture of a bygone age. Encircled by a fairy-tale stone wall with 88 watchtowers, it's easy to imagine Avila's days on the battleground of medieval kingdoms. [It is] a place where the past seems more alive than the present. For almost 300 years, Avila changed hands regularly between Muslims and Christians, until the fall of Toledo in 1085. By the end of the 16th century, the city's heyday was over and it has only recently begun to shake off the deep slumber of neglect that ensued." (Lonely Planet)

At right is an image from Google Earth, showing the intact wall that surrounds the city. Visitors are permitted to climb to the top and walk portions of the perimeter, providing great views of the city and the perfect setting for imagining Avila in all its medieval glory. I can't say I pretended to be a knight guarding the tower (because I'm not 10) but I did really enjoy walking the same steps that guardsmen walked for centuries during the Middle Ages.

Below are some views from atop the wall:

In addition to the preserved wall, Avila is also home to an enormous 12th century cathedral. I couldn't take pictures inside (as usual) but I so wish I could have because THIS IS A GREAT CATHEDRAL! For me, it's the most spectacular cathedral I have ever seen. What made it so great for me was that its cold and harsh exterior is warmed by its mish-mash, hodgepodge, imperfectly executed interior. Most cathedrals are masterfully executed, with each piece of art blending smoothly into the whole composition. But not this cathedral. An amazingly intricate wood altarpiece sits right next to a charmingly folksy painting of a medieval scene. An austere marble tomb of a medieval knight is housed under a wall that is hand painted in bright checks and diamonds as if part of a Guatemalan village church. It was this style, then that style, all over the cathedral, and it made an enormous, imposing structure so warm and personal at the same time. I loved it!

And, to top it off, they had Illuminated Manuscripts, easily five feet wide and so fun to look at!