Cape Town

I could definitely live in Cape Town! I have really liked everything I've seen of the city so far, including Cape Town's city center/CBD, referred to as the city bowl. It's walkable, it's pleasant, it's clean, it feels safe...it's all good.  I generally head into the city bowl once or twice a week with friends to shop, dine, see the sights, or just hang out. When I leave Cape Town, I will miss those trips into the city!

A few weeks ago I decided that Cape Town was just so cool that I wanted to know more about it, so I searched around and found a guided walking tour of the city given by a local historian. The description sounded really intriguing, so Henriet decided to join in as well.  The tour started out pretty interesting. Cape Town has a really eclectic mix of buildings, so the added explanation provided by the guide was helpful in invisioning the development of the city.


And it was very fascinating to visit Greenmarket Square and the nearby Presbyterian church, and hear about the anti-Apartheid protests held there (and subsequently squashed there...one time squashed with sprayguns of purple paint!). As we listened to the stories of the protests and defeat of apartheid, we stood on the very steps of the Presbyterian church where Nelson Mandela gave his first speech admonishing forgiveness and reconciliation after the fall of apartheid.

Once we left Greenmarket Square, however, the tour got kind of boring. Then it got really boring. The walking to standing-and-listening ratio was all wrong. (10 minutes on the history about random building number 57, one minute of walking, then 10 minutes on the history about random building 58, etc...) After drawing upon all the discipline we could muster, we finally excused ourselves half way through. Two hours was more than enough; four would have been too much. (Instead, we went to "Game"--South Africa's Target--where Henriet bought some bouncy seats for the Bap babies...which they ended up absolutely loving!)

Bo Kaap
Just up the hill from downtown is Bo Kaap, Cape Town's historic Islamic quarter (dating back to the mid-1700s.)  I spent one solo afternoon strolling around this quiet residental area of cobblestone streets and closely packed houses painted in bright greens, pinks and blues.
It was midday on a Friday--the Muslim day of public worship in mosques--so I was there to hear the call to prayer from the mineret, then see the rush to the mosque, and see the crowds pouring out a little while later. So interesting to see firsthand.

This area certainly feels a world away from the nearby city center.

Getting around town
One unique feature of my stay in Cape Town has been riding in the minibus taxis, pictured at right. Minibus taxis are generally not safe to use in most of South Africa (due to violent crime, unroadworthy vans...) but Cape Town is the exception, and riding in them is quite common and safe...and CHEAP! From Obs, it would cost about $10 to get a private taxi into town. Catching a mini-bus taxi, on the other hand, costs about 60 cents.


True you have to share it with upwards of 18 other adults, and it is true that you have to listen to whatever horrible music is blaring on the radio, and it is true that the drivers aren't the most courteous or safe drivers around, but... it's all worth it for the cost savings and the crazy 18-coeds-in-a-telephone-booth experience every time you hop on.

If we had a mini-bus taxi system like this in the US, my car would probably never leave the garage.

But...I hate the Cape Doctor
In the interest of balanced reporting, I gotta come up with something that I don't like about Cape Town. So, here it is: Cape Town is insanely, blow-you-over windy. I didn't know this before I came. Did you know this about Cape Town? It's so windy, it's that "you have to be kidding me" type of funny...except when it's really getting on my nerves, which for me is now most of the time. Residents call the wind "the cape doctor" because it blows away pollutants, but seeing that the wind also blows around pollen...it ain't no doctor for me. I have been an allergic mess since arriving. In fact, the Cape Doctor has made me go to the Local Doctor for a shot in my arse to help ease my allergies. Oye!