Back at Kruger National Park
(written 09/19/07)
Day One at Kruger:
I’m back to Kruger, this time with the tour. The first day was spent on the edge of Kruger National Park at a private game reserve. At Kruger, the ‘private reserves’ are where the truly luxurious safari lodges are situated. We are not at one of those. But, our accommodation is charming—in rustic but nicely appointed individual huts in the bush. It’s really great to be out in the bush, breathing in the fresh African air, hearing all the bird calls, taking in the amazing star-studded dark skies.
The first afternoon was spent on a relatively fruitless game drive. The evening, however, was spent on fruitful solitude. The entire group went on a night game drive, but I didn’t go since I had done a night game drive when I was at Kruger before, and my budget doesn’t allow for repeats. Instead I spent the evening alone in the stillness of the bush lodge, eating cashew nuts and drinking “Coke Light,” culling through photographs, writing in my journal, just relaxing. So calm, so beautiful. Four hours to re-charge in solitude. I photographed the breezy spot where I sat (below). Fantastic.
After dinner that evening we were treated to some traditional African dancing by campfire. This part of South Africa has a mix of tribes—Kwazi, Zulu and Shangan—and the dancers performed traditional tribal dances from all three cultures. Near the end of the performance, the leader asked for a volunteer from the audience to dance with the witch doctor. No one else wanted to, so I volunteered (what with all my vast experience with witch doctors). I’m currently operating under the “I don’t know anyone in Africa” philosophy so I don’t care if I make a fool of myself. [You should see how I am wearing my hair. Shameful. :)] While I’m certain I looked hilariously bad, it was fun! Some of the steps were just speedy renditions of “The Pony” so I was able to handle those. Who knew growing up during the 80s aerobics craze would pay off twenty years later in Africa.
Day Two at Kruger:
The next day we went on an all-day game drive in the national park—this one nowhere near as spectacular as the all-day drive I did with James and Elise a few weeks ago. However, we did have some great up-close encounters, including a spectacularly long and close visit with a curious spotted hyena. And, among other animals, we saw two lions far off in the distance—stretching, lounging, rolling around—and later in the day, we saw a black rhino grazing with some zebra and impala (my first in-the-wild rhino sighting).
Warren had coordinated all the animals for the drive with James and Elise, but for this drive, he must have been off doing something else. [he he :)] Of course, I shouldn’t blame it on Warren when it is probably more likely the fault of our ridiculous bus! The small 16-passenger touring bus we are using on this tour SUCKS, and we did the game drive in this bus. (This is a cheapy tour, so they didn’t splurge for the cool safari vehicles). The bus is tiny so there is no leg room and, even worse, there’s stinking bar right at eye level. Not so good for viewing game or checking out the landscape.
The whole group was in revolt over the bus until, after several days on the road, we realized that all small touring buses in Africa have windows like these—horizontally sliding windows on top, one solid window on the bottom, and a big black bar in the middle. Argh!
Nonetheless, it was another truly memorable visit. We leave Kruger tomorrow. Bummer. I’m glad I spent so much time here…it’s magical.
Day One at Kruger:
I’m back to Kruger, this time with the tour. The first day was spent on the edge of Kruger National Park at a private game reserve. At Kruger, the ‘private reserves’ are where the truly luxurious safari lodges are situated. We are not at one of those. But, our accommodation is charming—in rustic but nicely appointed individual huts in the bush. It’s really great to be out in the bush, breathing in the fresh African air, hearing all the bird calls, taking in the amazing star-studded dark skies.
The first afternoon was spent on a relatively fruitless game drive. The evening, however, was spent on fruitful solitude. The entire group went on a night game drive, but I didn’t go since I had done a night game drive when I was at Kruger before, and my budget doesn’t allow for repeats. Instead I spent the evening alone in the stillness of the bush lodge, eating cashew nuts and drinking “Coke Light,” culling through photographs, writing in my journal, just relaxing. So calm, so beautiful. Four hours to re-charge in solitude. I photographed the breezy spot where I sat (below). Fantastic.
After dinner that evening we were treated to some traditional African dancing by campfire. This part of South Africa has a mix of tribes—Kwazi, Zulu and Shangan—and the dancers performed traditional tribal dances from all three cultures. Near the end of the performance, the leader asked for a volunteer from the audience to dance with the witch doctor. No one else wanted to, so I volunteered (what with all my vast experience with witch doctors). I’m currently operating under the “I don’t know anyone in Africa” philosophy so I don’t care if I make a fool of myself. [You should see how I am wearing my hair. Shameful. :)] While I’m certain I looked hilariously bad, it was fun! Some of the steps were just speedy renditions of “The Pony” so I was able to handle those. Who knew growing up during the 80s aerobics craze would pay off twenty years later in Africa. 
Day Two at Kruger:The next day we went on an all-day game drive in the national park—this one nowhere near as spectacular as the all-day drive I did with James and Elise a few weeks ago. However, we did have some great up-close encounters, including a spectacularly long and close visit with a curious spotted hyena. And, among other animals, we saw two lions far off in the distance—stretching, lounging, rolling around—and later in the day, we saw a black rhino grazing with some zebra and impala (my first in-the-wild rhino sighting).
Warren had coordinated all the animals for the drive with James and Elise, but for this drive, he must have been off doing something else. [he he :)] Of course, I shouldn’t blame it on Warren when it is probably more likely the fault of our ridiculous bus! The small 16-passenger touring bus we are using on this tour SUCKS, and we did the game drive in this bus. (This is a cheapy tour, so they didn’t splurge for the cool safari vehicles). The bus is tiny so there is no leg room and, even worse, there’s stinking bar right at eye level. Not so good for viewing game or checking out the landscape.
The whole group was in revolt over the bus until, after several days on the road, we realized that all small touring buses in Africa have windows like these—horizontally sliding windows on top, one solid window on the bottom, and a big black bar in the middle. Argh!Nonetheless, it was another truly memorable visit. We leave Kruger tomorrow. Bummer. I’m glad I spent so much time here…it’s magical.
