Travels in Bolivia
I went to Bolivia one summer in my 20s, and I managed to keep a short travel journal of the visit, as well as taking some pictures of my favorite spots:
La Paz
Our first stop on the big (3 month) South American Adventure was La Paz, Bolivia--highest capital city in the world! Thanks to my sea-level existence, I spent the first THREE days in bed suffering from altitude sickness: throbbing headache, shortness of breath, extreme tiredness. NOT FUN!
But eventually we (Dany and I) got over it, and were ready to start the adventure. We spent several days exploring La Paz, which is charmingly colonial, with narrow alleys and little Spanish colonial details throughout.
One of my favorite things to do in La Paz was to explore the churches to see all the fascinating blending of indigenous culture and Catholicism in the artwork and architectural details. And, by far, my favorite market was the Mercado de Hechicera (Witches’ Market), where locals purchase potions and incantations made from all sorts of herbs, seeds, and secret ingredients to remedy any number of illnesses (real or imagined) and protect from evil spirits. Most surprising was the desiccated alpaca fetuses--which, if buried under the foundation of a new building, will ward off evil spirits. I bought a small good luck charm for my journey (a bunch of little shrubs and woodchips in a tiny bottle filled with an unidentifiable oily liquid.) We'll see if it works. :)
One big treat during our visit was to witness the Aymara New Year (June 21st). Dany and I were lucky enough to literally stumble across a large celebration taking place in La Paz, Bolivia's capital. What an experience! We sat amongst the locals, sharing coca leaves (bleh!, but when in Rome...), and enjoying the festivities for hours.
I loved the authenticity of this celebration--attended primarily by local indigenous peoples in traditional dress. It really spoke to the strength and determination of this culture to remain intact! (Between 50 and 60% of the total population of Bolivia is of pure Indian stock; most of these largely traditional people speak either Quecha or Aymara as a first language and strongly resist cultural change.)
Tihuanaco
Just a short distance from La Paz are the ruins of Tihuanaco, believed to be the capital of the Pre-Inca civilization, so Dany and I took a day trip out to see them. So much of Tihuanaco is still a mystery. Who were they and how did they build such advanced structures? The stones are fitted together without mortar, and were cut, squared, and notched with a precision that has not been found in any other South American civilization, not even the Inca. And, why did they leave? Much of the construction is unfinished, leading many to believe it was due to some catastrophic cause.
Just like the Mayan sites, Tihuanaco seems to pose more questions than answers. It was a fascinating trip. In the midst of all the serious discussion, I especially enjoyed seeing the funny faces depicted all over the site, almost cartoonish. And, of course, the snazzy boxers on the main guard statues—very fashion forward. :)
Copacabana: After a week in La Paz, we took a four hour bus ride to Copacabana, a small town on the shore of Lake Titicaca. We spent our first day exploring the central square, the surprisingly Moorish main cathedral, the market, and the side streets. It’s not actually a particularly fascinating little town, but we were lucky enough to be there for the weekly ‘blessing of the cars’--a very serious affair that attracts Bolivians from near and far.
One day during our stay at Copacabana, we hired a local to cruise us around Lake Titicaca, the highest lake in the world, and take us out to Isla Del Sol--a small island reputed to be where the sun was born and thus the birthplace of the Incas. We hiked a portion of the island, running across local indigenous people, curious llamas, and even a few small ruins.
Next, we were taken to a local ‘healer’, locally famous for her magical powers that chase off trauma and hardship. Not feeling terribly traumatized at that point, I wasn’t too keen on this stop. But her services could be garnered for the equivalent of one dollar, so I went for it. After a series of odd preparatory rituals (involving moving water from different sized buckets of water and mumbling incoherently), we got to the main attraction: the pulling of hair. Really. I was so shocked to suddenly feel my hair being yanked that I almost started laughing. But, that was the ritual. Apparently the yanking creates a popping sound indicating that evil has been released from the body. I heard no pops. Must mean I’m perfect. :)