Scenes from Semana Santa

Here are some additional scenes from Semana Santa in Sevilla:

Success for the Warren Parkes Memorial Fund

GREAT NEWS!
Thanks to your donations to the Warren Parkes Memorial Fund, three small business owners have improved their businesses and their lives. I just got word this week that we have received full repayment from three of the nine businesses that were part of the Fund's first round of recipients. And, I just checked our profile on Kiva, and the remaining six recipients are all making payments as scheduled and should fulfill their loans soon as well.

THE FIRST THREE SUCCESS STORIES
Together, in Warren's memory, we helped:

(1) Small grocery store owner Blanca from Honduras to increase her inventory and grow her customer base.

(2) Embroidery company owner Habiba from Afghanistan to buy three sewing machines (for her apprentices) to attract more clients.

(3) Used clothing vendor Maria from Mexico to increase her inventory to allow her to start selling at a local market.

NEW LOANS
The returned loan money has now been reloaned to the following three small business owners (photos and text from Kiva's website). I'll keep you posted on their progress, as well as the other six recipients.


Koffi from Togo (Africa)
Koffi Sowonou is the man sitting on the far left. The others in the photo are his apprentices who are learning the trade of tailoring. Mr. Sowonou is 45 years old and the father of 6 children. His tailor shop is located in Avenonou, a small village located about 120 kilometers from Lomé, the Togolese capital. With this loan, he would like to buy 3 sewing machines as well as fabrics suitable for men, to make clothes to sell to his clients. He hopes that with this loan he will be able to expand his business and with the profits he will gain from making and selling more clothes, he will be better able to cater for the needs of his family.

Heab from Cambodia (Asia)
Mrs. Heab Kong, 29, is a mother of three children that stays at home looking after the children and cooking food for her family members. After the house work, she works as a tailor and normally earns around $4 a day. Her husband supports the family as a motor-taxi driver, making around $3.50 a day of profit. To increase their standard of living they request to loan from Kiva to purchase another motor-taxi for their son to run as a business.

Macario from Ecuador (South America)
Macario is in the business of selling clothes and other items. He travels around the community and also to the rural sector, specifically targeting friends, family, and acquaintances. Macario has been selling clothes for about six years. Although his business is somewhat profitable, it does not always provide enough for him and his family. Therefore, Macario also buys and sells rice. He travels in his truck to rural Ecuador where he buys directly from the rice farmers. He sells the rice to many small stores around Guayaquil. Macario is on his third loan with this organization. He has proven to be a very responsible client who is a savvy investor. With this loan he wants to buy more school supplies as he knows that the new school semester is approaching and kids will be looking to restock. Macario is 53 years old and has two kids. His wife works as a housecleaner and sometimes gets jobs taking care of the elderly.

IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR WITH KIVA...
The Warren Parkes Memorial Fund uses Kiva, a nonprofit organization that "lets you lend to a specific entrepreneur in the developing world—empowering them to lift themselves out of poverty." The loan amounts are small ("micro-loans") but sometimes a few hundred dollars is all that a small business owner in a developing country needs to completely change their lives! Check them out for yourself at www.kiva.org.

The Mezquita at Cordoba

On Saturday, I took a one hour train ride to nearby Cordoba to see the famous Cordoba Mesquita (mosque), with its rows and rows of red-and-white stripped arches disappearing off into infinity.


CORDOBA 101
I didn´t know much about Cordoba before coming to Spain, which is actually quite surprising considering the historical importance of this city. In case I´m not the only one who apparently missed the day Cordoba was discussed in history class, here´s a short synopsis (largely borrowed from Lonely Planet):

Founded in 152 BC, Cordoba (then Corduba) was a major Roman cultural center, provincial capital of Baetica and the birthplace of the writers Seneca and Lucan.

In 711 AD, Cordoba fell to the Muslim invaders and soon became the Islamic capital on the Iberian peninsula (home of modern Spain and Portugal). At its heyday (912-961 AD), Cordoba was the biggest city in Western Europe, with a population between 100,000 and 500,000. It had dazzling mosques, patios, libraries, observatories, a university, and aqueducts. The city became a place of pilgrimage for Muslims who could not reach Mecca or Jerusalem as well as a major multicultural center for scholarship, frequented by Jewish, Arab and Christian scholars. While the rest of Europe languished in the Dark Ages, the sciences, astronomy, mathematics and philosophy were thriving in a religiously tolerant Muslim Cordoba.

Eventually the city was recaptured by the armies of Fernando III of Castile in 1236, after which it experienced centuries of decline that only began to be reversed with the coming of industry in the late 19th century.

WHY JUST THE MOSQUE?
I have recently embarked on a serious exertion-minimization program. I´m tired. Between 4-6 hours a day of classes plus seeing the sights and going on weekend excursions, I´m exhausted! I have one more week to push through (Semana Santa in Sevilla) and then I am taking five days to relax in Cadiz, a beach town on the southwest coast of Spain.

So, in line with my exertion-minimization program (sounds so official, eh?), I went to Cordoba--one hour outside of Sevilla by train--just to see the famous mosque, and nothing else. Not the cathedral, not the Alcazar (castle), not the labyrinth of medieval streets in the city´s historic center. I went for the mesquita and then I went back to Sevilla. In fact, I didn´t even bother to leave for Cordoba until 12:30 in the afternoon.

THE MOSQUE
What an experience! Cordoba´s mosque is so unique and atmospheric, from its endless arches and intricate woodwork:

to its shimmering golden mosaics that line the walls of the maskura, where the caliphs and their retinues would have prayed.

I loved all the scalloped arches, and the bursts of red throughout the enormous building (23,000 square meters!)

After the Christian reconquest of Cordoba, the mosque´s interior underwent significant alterations, including a 16th century capilla plunked right down in the middle. During my visit, I avoided these altered portions, so incongruous with what was surely a fantastic building to start with. And actually, not everyone was in favor of these Christian alterations. After seeing the Christian alterations, King Carlos I is reputed to have exclaimed to the church authorities, ¨You have destroyed something that was unique in the world.¨ I don´t think it´s destroyed, per se, but then again I never saw it before it was altered.

CORDOBA'S GATE
I entered the old town through a gate in Cordoba´s old city walls, so I snapped a few pictures and stitched them together, below:


WHEN ONE DOOR JUST WON'T DO
And I couldn´t help taking a picture of one the many courtyard patios that I passed en route to the Mesquita. I covet these patios!

Clearing out the Sevilla folder, part 1

I am determined not to get too behind on my journal, so this entry (and another one tomorrow) will be my jumbled attempt to clear out my Sevilla pictures folder before boarding the train out of here on Saturday. Let´s call this jumbled entry ¨Sevilla´s major buildings.¨


Torre de Oro

This 13th century riverbank Islamic watchtower once crowned a corner of Sevilla´s city walls. It´s called the ´tower of gold´ because either (1) according to my guidebook, the dome was once covered in golden tiles, or (2) according to my Spanish teacher, this is where the conquistadors stored their New World booty upon returning to Sevilla. No offense against Moises, but I think the guidebook is more reputable on this one.

By the way, this is an ongoing problem for me. I get lots of conflicting stories on the origins of places, characteristics, etc. Like the prevalence of interior courtyards in Andalucia, for instance, which date to (1) when the Romans ruled the area, or (2) when the Muslims ruled the area. I´ve heard both, several times, and both are probably true. Who knows. In short, it´s probably best to not take what I say on this sight as the absolute truth, okay. :)

Plaza de Espana

This monstrous plaza is a highlight for many tourists visiting Seville. I didn´t particularly care for it. Built for the 1929 International Fair, it´s the epitome of World´s Fair-style building--enormous structures demonstrating zero restraint toward a particular style, in this case typically Andalusian tilework. ¨Over the top¨ is an understatement for this structure. Actually, it was on this spot in 1930 that humankind learned that valuable lesson that more is not always better. Okay, not really, but it sure could be. The photos don´t really convey what I am droning on and on about, so I´ll end the rant here. (I don´t want someone to send me a virus!)

Below is a stitched together panorama of part of the Plaza. Imagine 10% more on the left and 30% more on the right, and that will give you an idea of the size.



Fabrica de Tabacos

"Today´s university was yesterday´s fabrica de tabacos (tobacco factory), which employed 10,000 young female cigareras--including the saucy femme fatale of Bizet´s opera Carmen. In the 18th century it was the second-largest building in Spain, after El Escorial.¨ (Rick Steves)

This building is extremely large and ornate for a factory! I especially enjoyed looking at the reliefs on the exterior of the building, like the smoking Native Americans.

When I was there, the school was bustling with students, and the interior courtyards looked like such a welcoming place to study that it made me sad for my long lost college years.



And lastly, the Cathedral

Sevilla´s cathedral is the third largest church in Europe (after the Vatican´s St Peters and London´s St Paul´s) and the largest Gothic church anywhere in the world. And yet, I still haven´t so much as peaked inside. I´m a little churched-out at the moment, but a month of viewing mosques in Morocco should cure me. Who knows, I still have almost a week in Sevilla. It might still happen.

Semana Santa has begun

Yesterday--Palm Sunday--was the first day of Semana Santa. I was out all day (12 hours!) watching the processions. Absolutely incredible! However, I am going to hold off on posting anything about Semana Santa until the week is over. With classes and the processions, I am going to have time for little else. So...my Semana Santa report most likely won´t be until Sunday.

However, I have some old posts that I have written but haven´t had time to upload. I´ll post those over the next few days, so there will be something to check out. I know you are all hanging on my every word, eh? :)

Flamenco Culture

On the bus ride to Seville, I decided it was time to read a bit about my new home for the next three weeks.

So, I cracked open my Rick Steve's book, and here´s the first sentence I read: "Seville is the flamboyant city of Carmen and Don Juan, where bullfighting is still politically correct and where little girls still dream of growing up to become flamenco dancers."

I had no idea at the time how true that statement really is!


Seville is a thoroughly modern city, offering everything you need for comfortable living (including American brands...see left). Yet at the same time, Sevillianos have kept their unique, centuries old traditions alive in a very real way. These traditions are not simply dragged out in order to attract the coveted tourism dollar.

No, Sevillianos live their traditions.











And I think little girls here do dream of becoming flamenco dancers. Little girls, and big girls too. I rarely passed a flamenco store without seeing window shoppers admiring the latest dress designs, the hair accessories, the beautiful woven shawls, colorful handpainted fans, and enormous, dramatic earrings.

There are dozens (maybe even 100) stores selling nothing but flamenco attire. This is prime season for buying a new flamenco dress, as Sevilla´s big annual fair is just two weeks away. Called ¨The Feria¨, this week long celebration is a kind of release after the solemnity of Semana Santa. For an entire week, the women wear their fabulous flouncy flamenco dresses, and eat and drink and dance until dawn. The party goes on for literally 24 hours a day for the entire week.






But it´s not a drunken Lalapoluza. It´s very much a family affair, as much for the children as it is for the adults. Little girls dress in flamenco dresses of their own, and the entire family enjoys the party together.

I am not staying for the feria. It will be great, I am sure, but I am moving on. I will be sad to miss seeing all the women in their beautiful dresses, the horses and carriages that parade the feria grounds in their finery (horses are dressed up too), the men on horseback with women riding behind them side-saddle. That would all be very fun to see.

But, then again, I don´t really like the big partying fair scene in the US, so I´d probably get tired of it pretty quickly!



I did want a piece of the experience though, so the other day I mustered up the courage to go into one of those many flamenco stores and try on a few dresses for myself. At right is me before--in my boring old city clothes--and after, transformed into a flamenco momma.






























I didn´t mean to chop off my head in the picture. I just couldn´t back up far enough in the dressing room, and I was NOT going to go out and ask the store employee to take my picture.  And the verdict? Do I have flamenco in my soul? Um...I felt like a stuffed sausage to be honest. Most of the dresses didn´t fit me very well because I am so much taller than the average Spanish woman. But...it was fun to try.

first England, now Rome

Last week I visited England. Yesterday, Rome.

...Ancient Rome, that is. Did you know that emperors Trajan and Hadrian were both from Spain? I sure didn't. I'd assumed that all Roman emperors were, well, born in Rome. But, in fact, Hadrian and Trajan hail from the Sevilla area, from a sizeable Roman settlement called Italica.

Founded in 206 BC for veterans of Rome's victory over Carthage, Italica was the first of many Roman settlements in Spain. And thanks to it's favorite sons Hadrian and Trajan, the city received a tremendous boost, with grand projects that were, in truth, on a scale entirely uncalled for given Italica's population size.

When the empire fell, Italica was largely abandoned, and what remains today is a fantastic peak into the majesty of the Roman metropolis.

Italica's layout is a perfect example of the marvel of Roman town planning, with distinct sections designated for public, semi-private, and private buildings, all of which integrate beautifully into an exceptional landscape.


MOSAICS
For me, the most captivating aspect of Italica was the prevalence of beautiful, intricate mosaics, covering virtually every room in the homes of the Italica's political elite and wealthy residents. Even simple hallways were decorated with unique and colorful mosaic designs. At Italica, there's not simply one or two mosaics to be seen; there are dozens! Here's just a sampling of the designs (including our friend Medusa up in the top middle):


There were so many great mosaics, but unfortunately because I was standing on the ground and not hovering over them from the air, I wasn't able to get good photographs to share with you. At right are images from the large House of Birds mosaic, which depicts more than 30 different species of birds. Each bird is so colorful and artfully created, it's truly magic to see. But, sadly my photography just doesn't do it justice. Oh well.

AMPHITHEATRE
Italica has one of the largest of all Roman amphitheatres, with a seating capacity of 25,000--clearly more than was needed based on the size of the town's population.

I enjoyed walking around the grounds, through the interior corridors, onto the main central arena. I tried to imagine it full of spectators, but couldn't due to the site's decaying state and the sun's increasing heat.

I did spend some time in the Gladiator's room, trying to see if I could decipher any of the Latin words that make up the Gladiator's creed, or prayer. This is where they would gather, awaiting their designated time in the ring. Spooky.

In all, it was a great visit...a must do for anyone visiting Sevilla, especially since it's a simple half-hour bus ride from downtown Sevilla...and just $3 round trip! :)

Preparations for Semana Santa

Semana Santa starts this Sunday and you can feel the excitement building.

“Semana Santa” is a week of elaborate and dramatic processions and floats to commemorate the Easter event. Semana Santa celebrations are common throughout the Spanish-speaking world, but it’s at its most Catholically extravagant in Seville. It's a very serious affair, full of pomp and glory, and I can´t wait to experience it in person.

Over the last few weeks I have seen all the preparation involved, and can tell you first hand that this is no mere tourism extravaganza. Semana Santa in Sevilla is by the locals for the locals. It is an emotional event, full of neighborhood pride and religious devotion. And it is much more complex than I originally imagined. This week in our culture class at school we are learning about Semana Santa, from it´s origins in the 1700s to how it is practiced today. As the week goes on, I will share some of what I learned on this site, with accompanying pictures.


Rehearsals
A few days ago I was on my way home around 7pm when I ran across a rehearsal in action.

(...Ooops, gotta head back to class. I´ll finish this entry tomorrow.)






Semana Santa hits the stores

Plaza de Toros

On Tuesday morning I visited Sevilla´s bullring, reputed to be the oldest in Spain and one of the most beautiful. In fact, it was probably here (and nearby Rhonda) that bullfighting on foot--instead of horseback--began in the 18th century.

I went on an interesting, half hour tour of the ring, which included a small museum with artifacts dating to the earliest bull fights. I´ve always been curious how this sport came about. Too many bulls and not enough to do? I learned at the museum that bullfighting originated out of a military training exercise. At first, soldiers on horseback practiced knocking faux heads off of a statue in the center of a ring. This is depicted in the painting below, and aside that are photos of the original statue and four of the Pirates of the Carribean-esque heads. Eventually, this challenge was too easily mastered, and new challenges had to be introduced. Por fin, the bull. Fighting an massive agitated bull on foot does seem to me to be the zenith of all imaginable challenges.


By the way, the word "matador" translates literally as 'the killer'!

One odd thing I learned while on the tour: If the matador, aka the torrero, kills the bull in a particularly spectacular manner (apparently there is a complicated point system), he/she is given the ear of the bull as a souvenir. This seems very odd to me... what on earth is the matador going to do with it once he gets home? Use it as a paper weight? Some of the bullheads at the museum were indeed missing ears, signifying that they died 'spectacular deaths'. Lucky bulls.

I enjoyed seeing the ring and learning about bullfighting, but I don´t plan to attend a bullfight while in Spain. I went to one about 10 years ago while in Guanajuato, Mexico. For me, once was enough. However, putting aside my general feelings about this ´sport´, I will say one thing: the Sevilla ring has fantastic poster art!

If you like intricate tilework...

If you like intricate tilework, Sevilla´s a great place to visit.

I don´t have much time to write today, so I will just share some examples of the beautiful tilework to be found throughout the city. Below is a sampling of common tile patterns:

In addition to geometric and floral patterns, countless painted tiles decorate Sevilla, often depicting the history of Spain and everyday life in Andalucia:

Tilework truly is everywhere, from floors and walls to building facades and park benches (like these benches in the Plaza de Espana):

And, ´back in the day´, tiles were even commonly used for advertisements. I love this billboard-sized tile advertisement for those snazzy new Studebakers. It was hand-painted in 1927, and for being almost 100 years old, it´s in pretty good shape considering it´s on the wall of one of Seville´s busiest (pedestrian-only) shopping streets!